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Intel Motherboards : z170m-itx/ac gaming, bricked after BIOS update?

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Author: parsec
Subject: z170m-itx/ac gaming, bricked after BIOS update?
Posted: 21 Oct 2016 at 12:27pm

Originally posted by jd49 jd49 wrote:

I did attempt some more trouble shooting last night with no luck.  I called ASrock and they immediately offered to send me a new BIOS chip.  I wanted to follow-up a bit still, first to possibly help other posters and Google searchers, and second because I'm now a tad worried about updating my BIOS in the future.  I've updated the BIOS on at least 15 motherboards (+ family and friends) multiple times and never had an issue.

1.
It is the gaming board, Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac.

2.
At 98%, it definitely did something on its own.  I did not have to press any keys.  The keyboard was actually up on my desk while I was sitting on the floor with the PC.  I will say, however, it may have been  a shutdown with a quick startup, as opposed to a restart.  My memory can't differentiate exactly which one, but it was definitely automated and there was no video output ever since.


Again, at the end of an Instant Flash update, you are prompted to press Enter to continue. I have no idea what happened in your case, but it was not normal behavior.

I have many ASRock boards, Z77 (two), Z87 (two), Z97, X99, Z170, and others. As a moderator, I routinely update them to every UEFI update available, including Beta versions. I only use Instant Flash. I have never had an instance of Instant Flash failing, or behaving as you described.
Originally posted by jd49 jd49 wrote:


3.
Everything would have been running at stock.  I never overclocked or adjusted RAM timings or even profiles.  I did plan on playing with XMP at some point, but whether it defaulted to that or not I didn't even check.  My first phase was getting the PC to post, and since I was (unexpectedly) able to get into Windows and download the BIOS, I decided to knock that out before formatting and installing the fresh OS.  When I was briefly in the OS I did check the system properties and it did see the 16GB RAM and processor, of course.

4.
I'm concerned about potentially updating the BIOS in the future and have some questions.

4a.
If something like this happened again, how long would I let it run on a black screen before I intervene?

4b.
If all else fails after waiting, what should I do?

4c.
If I must rely on the Crashless BIOS feature, how do I use it?  All mentions of it point to a USB 2.0 port on the IO panel.  I don't have a USB 2.0 port, only 3.0 and 3.1 (and a "Fatality" USB Mouse port).

Also, does the drive really need to be FAT32?  The original drive that I put the BIOS on, looking back, was NTFS and ALSO had the whole Windows install on it (could this have been my issue! UGH!).  The BIOS seemed to find it and use it.  I guess I expected it to stop me, or not even find the drive, if it wasn't formatted properly Dead.

I had to find a separate drive (didn't want to lose my fresh made Windows flash) and format it to FAT32 when I was experimenting with the Crashless feature.


The Crashless feature is automatically started when a PC is restarted via the Reset button on the PC, or if it restarts by itself for some reason.

If you get a black screen on a failed update as you did, no need to wait at all. Press Reset after a minute or so, you should have been prompted to enter the UEFI/BIOS after a successful update, when POST completes.

The Instant Flash instruction specify FAT32. That is the default formatting of USB flash drives. USB is a packet based interface, and formatting a USB flash drive as NTFS serves what purpose? SATA and AHCI don't work over USB. If you have one USB flash drive, you need another, they are cheap. I use USB flash drives exclusively to install Windows in UEFI mode, never formatted them other than FAT32.

Since your board is a Z170, you can use the USB 3.0 ports. I always say USB 2.0 to be safe with boards that use third party USB 3.0 controllers, or may have Windows 7 installed, so no native USB 3.0 driver available, unless added to the installation media.

If all else fails after waiting, for some reason it was bricked again. But don't forget you shut off the PC, cleared the BIOS, among other things. As I said earlier, that sealed your fate, sorry to say.

Originally posted by jd49 jd49 wrote:


5.
I've never replaced a BIOS chip and have some questions.

5a
I've watched a few videos online- but are there any recommended ones that are similar to my board's chip type you suggest?

5b.
Do you think I should/need to physically remove the board from the case prior to doing this?  (I'm just thinking about all of the components that are plugged/screwed in and saving time re-building).  It looks like I can access the chip fairly well with the video card and RAM removed so I have space to work; but since I've never done this I'm not sure how much leverage will be needed.

5c.
Chip pullers, yes or no?  Also, it looks like there are two kinds.  Suggestions?



Thank you for your much valued help!



I have no idea what PC case you have, or mounting of components. The BIOS chip is next to the end of the PCIe x16 slot, below the SATA ports, and next to the WiFi module. Your small board is pretty tight, but I can't predict your builds layout.

Regardless, obviously remove power from the PSU, unplug it from AC power. Remove the board's battery, which is next to the HDMI and DisplayPort connectors on the IO panel. Let the board sit for a while without power to let the capacitors discharge. They are low voltage, so does not take long, 10 minutes is plenty.

BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE BIOS CHIP, CHECK ITS ORIENTATION IN THE SOCKET!!! It can only go in two ways, but only one is correct! Take a picture first if necessary, to help recall the position of the markings on the chip. The chip has a notch in it on one end, just note where that notch is. DO NOT REMOVE THE OLD CHIP UNTIL YOU HAVE THE NEW ONE TO COMPARE IT WITH THE OLD ONE IN THE SOCKET. Your boards information page has a good top down picture of the board which you can click on to get a larger view.

The BIOS chip is the ultra common eight pin DIP package. A chip puller for that type is perfect. Given how tight things are on that board, I suggest using one. All it does is slip under the chip, and lets you pull it up and off. It's not that difficult to do.

Be sure the pins on the new chip are straight and fit into their locations on the socket. Push the chip down slowly, on the middle of the chip so all the pins go in together. A lot of pressure should not be necessary.

Don't forget to put the battery back when you reassemble the PC.

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